If I could give just one tip to anyone thinking of going to Croatia, it would be this: don’t take fitted clothes. As well as improving the mind, any visit will increase the girth. The country has taken all the richest ingredients from a succession of invaders – Greeks, Romans, Slavs, Ottomans, French, Venetians and Austrians – and turned them into one great feast: of history, culture and art, and a cuisine that makes one wish one wasn’t quite so greedy.

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