Zagreb is teeming with museums, galleries, theatres, cinemas and architectural curios, from the 16th-century Gornji Grad (old town/upper town) to a lower town replete with Austro-Hungarian art nouveau and equally beguiling socialist-style haunts.
Throw in a cafe (caffe)/salon (kavana) culture, an enchanting boho heritage and a rescinded smoking-ban (because too many people stopped going out), and you have a scene ideal for the arty traveller.
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