Discovering Sibenik, a Dubrovnik without the tourist crowds

Once industrial, Sibenik is now recasting itself as a tourist destination, eyeing the success of Dubrovnik and Split further down the coast.

Climb its narrow streets, admire the 15th-century St James cathedral and break for drinks in a hidden garden cafe.

The area isn’t touristy yet. When we ask what kind of wine is on the menu at Roca, a traditional tavern a short drive into the countryside, the waiter barks: ‘Red. Or white.’ It’s clearly not the moment to request rose.

Here we sit by a cellar, separated by a sheet of glass from dozens of pig legs ageing into prosciutto. Our food’s a hearty stew of pork and chicken pieces, which we ladle onto our plates and eat with tart local salads.